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Old 11/29/2009, 10:17 PM   #26
BeanAnimal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordofthereef View Post
I would just grab a better gasket and give it a try.
What is a "better" gasket? The gaskets supplied with the bulkheads are perfectly suitable for the purpose at hand. If and when it is determined that the gasket is at fault, then spending the time and money to purchase a new one would be a reasonable endeavor. However, from the context of this thread, there is no reason to beleive that the gasket is bad. Instead it would appear that the bulkhead is not properly installed.

When you troubleshoot a problem, usually the best methodology is to use a process of elimination that provides a logical YES/NO path to find and fix the problem. If you car will not start but it does crank, do you run out and replace the battery? Of course not. Do you replace the tires? Of course not. You choose a logical path to troubleshoot the problem. First you check to see that there is spark at the plugs, then you check for fuel at the throttle body or carb... then you...

While a bulkhead is not a complicated piece of equipment, it can easily be installed improperly. Most leaks are the result of improper installation, not bad gaskets.

Any lastly... there is almost always a right way and a wrong way to do something and there is most certainly good advice and bad advice. I think you will find a bit of both in this thread


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Old 11/12/2018, 09:20 AM   #27
neoh74
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The hole is the bottom with the crack to the right. Tank is on a solid top stand with foam core underneath. Right now im leaning towards filling crack and leveling with 5200, installing new bulkheads, then sealing the whole bottom and around the bulkheads with silicone.

https://ibb.co/hWADQA


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Old 11/12/2018, 09:27 AM   #28
ostrow
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You likely cracked the nut. Try replacing without silicone. Silicone causes problems later


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Old 11/13/2018, 12:14 PM   #29
West1
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I would replace the bulkhead.

If the bulkhead is already Glued to PVC, buy a heatgun from Home Depot and heat the threads of the bulkhead. The trick will be keeping the glass cool.

I've replaced many PVC items with heating the PVC. I have also used a heatgun to give me a little more angle on a 45* pvc so there was zero pressure on the return bulkhead.


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Old 11/13/2018, 05:24 PM   #30
ostrow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by West1 View Post
I would replace the bulkhead.

If the bulkhead is already Glued to PVC, buy a heatgun from Home Depot and heat the threads of the bulkhead. The trick will be keeping the glass cool.

I've replaced many PVC items with heating the PVC. I have also used a heatgun to give me a little more angle on a 45* pvc so there was zero pressure on the return bulkhead.
Holy crap! "What could possibly go wrong?"

True Union Ball Valve just after the bulkhead. Always always always!!!


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Old 11/13/2018, 05:58 PM   #31
West1
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Originally Posted by ostrow View Post
Holy crap! "What could possibly go wrong?"

True Union Ball Valve just after the bulkhead. Always always always!!!
I'm sorry, I missed the reason for your comment?


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Old 11/13/2018, 08:38 PM   #32
ostrow
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It may work for you but I would not recommend to others using high heat tools.like heat guns or blown torches etc on reef tank plumbing and near glass. Even with the caveats.

Using TU ball valves is a much safer and more straightforward way to allow easy removal of plumbing sections including bulkheads.


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Old 11/14/2018, 07:18 AM   #33
West1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ostrow View Post
It may work for you but I would not recommend to others using high heat tools.like heat guns or blown torches etc on reef tank plumbing and near glass. Even with the caveats.

Using TU ball valves is a much safer and more straightforward way to allow easy removal of plumbing sections including bulkheads.
Just realized this thread was created in 09 Lol.

I gave a suggestion based on the OP's info and what I have done. From what I read, the plumbing was already in place and no TU ball was near the bulkhead. Even then, the area of concern was at the Bulkhead not anywhere past.


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