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Old 05/05/2018, 10:16 AM   #1176
paal
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Thanks Przemek. Much appreciated.

I just went to the [System] -tab and clicked [Default settings]
When it finished, the current correct time was shown in the LCD. However, the clock would not run after this. (same as when i tried to set new time earlier)
I also tried a [Soft reset] but again: clock did not change.

Everything else seems to be working exactly like before. Only the clock seems bugged.

EDIT:
Nevermind; clock is now running

I spent many hours trying "everything" from resets / new versions / using different phones and PCs. Nothing seemed to help. Clock was frozen.
Tonight though, I noticed the lamp had begun to turn off for the night as scheduled. When I then checked the LCD panel, I noticed the clock was "live" again.

So...I do not know why it was "dead" for a few days, and I do not know what fixed it, but at least now everyting seems OK :P



Last edited by paal; 05/06/2018 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 05/17/2018, 05:34 AM   #1177
kainic
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Posts: 173
Hi all,

I'm currently using stock PAR scenario on a PacSun Pandora Hyperion S 2*145 + 4*39 with a 90 minutes sunrise/sunset.
I really like how my aquarium looks when on sunset because the ratio UV/other colors is higher than when not in sunset. All my colors are set at 100% except for red and orange, so I can't increase my UV leds to see the effect I'm looking for. My lamp intensity is at 90% so what I can do is decrease color leds and increase lamp intensity leaving UV leds at 100%.
Sorry if this is not clear enough, english is not my mother language.

TIA
@Przemek_PacSun


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Old 05/17/2018, 10:01 AM   #1178
Przemek_PacSun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paal View Post
Thanks Przemek. Much appreciated.

I just went to the [System] -tab and clicked [Default settings]
When it finished, the current correct time was shown in the LCD. However, the clock would not run after this. (same as when i tried to set new time earlier)
I also tried a [Soft reset] but again: clock did not change.

Everything else seems to be working exactly like before. Only the clock seems bugged.

EDIT:
Nevermind; clock is now running

I spent many hours trying "everything" from resets / new versions / using different phones and PCs. Nothing seemed to help. Clock was frozen.
Tonight though, I noticed the lamp had begun to turn off for the night as scheduled. When I then checked the LCD panel, I noticed the clock was "live" again.

So...I do not know why it was "dead" for a few days, and I do not know what fixed it, but at least now everyting seems OK :P
Good to hear that :-)


@kainic
UV leds generate very small amount of light - you are not able to see that during the day but as you can see - on each square matrix(20x20mm) there three LED's working(UV) - so corals "can see that lighting by the skin" - human eyes unfortunately not(its working like shutter in photo camera - more light, you can't see high energy light - short waves).


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Old 05/18/2018, 03:09 AM   #1179
kainic
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Quote:
@kainic
UV leds generate very small amount of light - you are not able to see that during the day but as you can see - on each square matrix(20x20mm) there three LED's working(UV) - so corals "can see that lighting by the skin" - human eyes unfortunately not(its working like shutter in photo camera - more light, you can't see high energy light - short waves).
I'll try to explain again. I'm looking for a "pop" on my corals. I want to increase fluorescence in my corals. When my lamp is on sunset, the colors on my corals just "pop". What should I do to mimic this when not on sunset? I'm running stock PAR scenario with 90min sunset. What is my lamp doing on sunset? Can explain me the changes on light when on sunset?

Thanks again


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Last edited by kainic; 05/18/2018 at 03:22 AM.
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Old 05/18/2018, 02:50 PM   #1180
Przemek_PacSun
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It's not working like you think.
Why corals "pop"? Because they have built special pigments (usually gamma flour proteins) which absorb some light and reflect the rest.
Green corals "pop" under blue light.
Why?I will try to explain it on green pigments.
Take a look for chart below:


Corals lighted by blue light(about 450nm - typical Royal Blue led) took some energy from wavelengths. If energy is smaller - lightwaves are longer - so there is spectrum shift from blue to green(usually - many pigments are active in this spectrum range).

Take a look for another chart:


You can see several points on chart - X axis is information about excitation wavelengths (used for lighting corals in simple words) - on Y axis you can see what kind of light(color/ lengths) is emitted by coral pigment . You can see that in almost all situation in GFP pigments "absorbed" light have higher energy(shorter wavelengths) than emitted light - cause coral "take" some energy from this light (so there is spectrum shift - blu light used - green coral is "popping" , used yellow light - "more red is emitted by corals " etc.
Thats why it's important to use properly designed led panels with less which emit light in proper spectrum range.
But..
If you will use only Blue lights(or mostly blue only - from LED which is monochromatic kind of light) your corals will have very nicely built green pigments - but all other colors will gone.
Most important for corals spectrum is between 490 to 550nm). Other important area is 570-595nm. Thats why you should have cyan, lime, green channels on during the day turned on (and set for high power) - the same like amber(585nm).

Reasuming :-)
If you like your corals popping during sunset - it good, but left it only for sunset. If you will have that kind dominated during whole day - your corals will look bad after weeks/months. They will not adapt to "catching" light from different spectrum areas and pigments will not be built in coral skin.

PS. I hope that you understood what I tried to tell you. We are not making led panels for human eyes - but for nice looking corals in long term. But you need to remember that LED light(as high energy light source) require some additional supplementation for corals. It's like in plant tank - if you will use too strong light but without carbon dioxide supplementation - plants will not grow.
With corals it's looking the same - you have to remember about proper levels of Potassium, Strontium(it's responsible for calcification process) and Iron. From my personal experience - it's better to have some organic discoverable by aquarium test instead of having ULNS and stron LED light - it's like asking for troubles...

Have a nice weekend.

Regards

Przemek


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Old 05/21/2018, 07:50 AM   #1181
kainic
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 173
Quote:
Originally Posted by Przemek_PacSun View Post
It's not working like you think.
Why corals "pop"? Because they have built special pigments (usually gamma flour proteins) which absorb some light and reflect the rest.
Green corals "pop" under blue light.
Why?I will try to explain it on green pigments.
Take a look for chart below:


Corals lighted by blue light(about 450nm - typical Royal Blue led) took some energy from wavelengths. If energy is smaller - lightwaves are longer - so there is spectrum shift from blue to green(usually - many pigments are active in this spectrum range).

Take a look for another chart:


You can see several points on chart - X axis is information about excitation wavelengths (used for lighting corals in simple words) - on Y axis you can see what kind of light(color/ lengths) is emitted by coral pigment . You can see that in almost all situation in GFP pigments "absorbed" light have higher energy(shorter wavelengths) than emitted light - cause coral "take" some energy from this light (so there is spectrum shift - blu light used - green coral is "popping" , used yellow light - "more red is emitted by corals " etc.
Thats why it's important to use properly designed led panels with less which emit light in proper spectrum range.
But..
If you will use only Blue lights(or mostly blue only - from LED which is monochromatic kind of light) your corals will have very nicely built green pigments - but all other colors will gone.
Most important for corals spectrum is between 490 to 550nm). Other important area is 570-595nm. Thats why you should have cyan, lime, green channels on during the day turned on (and set for high power) - the same like amber(585nm).

Reasuming :-)
If you like your corals popping during sunset - it good, but left it only for sunset. If you will have that kind dominated during whole day - your corals will look bad after weeks/months. They will not adapt to "catching" light from different spectrum areas and pigments will not be built in coral skin.

PS. I hope that you understood what I tried to tell you. We are not making led panels for human eyes - but for nice looking corals in long term. But you need to remember that LED light(as high energy light source) require some additional supplementation for corals. It's like in plant tank - if you will use too strong light but without carbon dioxide supplementation - plants will not grow.
With corals it's looking the same - you have to remember about proper levels of Potassium, Strontium(it's responsible for calcification process) and Iron. From my personal experience - it's better to have some organic discoverable by aquarium test instead of having ULNS and stron LED light - it's like asking for troubles...

Have a nice weekend.

Regards

Przemek
Need to digest that amazing answer. Thank you Przemek.


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