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Old 01/10/2019, 07:18 AM   #1
~RuSh~
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BTA losing color?

Hey guys,

40 breeder, 3 bubble tip anemones, Viparspectra 165w LED at about 12 inches above tank.


I've had two of these anemones since the summer, June or so and they've been through a rough patch lets say. They are hardy and have been stable as of recent, meaning they open regularly, bubble up nicely and seem to have been growing in size - where as during the summer for a period they seemed to not always open up fully and didn't grow at all or shrank (I actually lost one completely after it split). The third BTA I have only put in the tank in the past month or so and it seems to be doing good as well, opening up nice, stretching out and bubbling up. That one seems to have decent color, which in comparison to my others got me really looking - looks like my original two are really lacking color. The tips seem to contain a nice pinkish color, but closer to the base of the tentacles are really light, almost transparent in some areas.

Am I bleaching these guys???

I've been running just one channel on this light since I can't seem to run CH1 and Ch2 at the same time - not sure if I just didn't set it up right or if my unit is defective, but for the past several months I've been running CH1 at about a 40 which is mostly a white spectrum, and I run it from about 4pm to about 10pm. I wouldn't think that would be too much on them but I guess I don't know.

I have been doing spot feeding of small pieces of shrimp about once every other week, which they have tolerated fine so far.

Water parameters were an issue this summer, that's why I lost the first one, but since I've got that back on track things have been better. Last test results were Amm - 0, Nitrite -0, Nitrate ~ 20, Salinity 1026, I use reef crystals, and haven't tested Ca or MG since I set up a long time ago since I have no corals but I could if need be.

Any help is appreciated guys. Thanks.


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Old 01/11/2019, 03:35 PM   #2
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http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pso4wboqdv.jpg

 photo 9283578F-FE29-4B14-AC77-2D6AB160DCAD_zpso4wboqdv.jpg



Maybe a picture would be helpful...


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Old 01/11/2019, 09:02 PM   #3
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I have this light on a BTA but both channels at the same time, 60 white, 90 blue.
Does look like its bleaching....
Nitrate at 20 is a bit high, but not overly.
The blue is actually very bright to the nem (or other photosynthetics) so you need to work both channels


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Old 01/12/2019, 12:51 PM   #4
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Thanks for the reply. What size tank? How high is your light mounted?


I guess I really didn't have a clue what I was doing with this light. I've turned the blue up to 60, and white is low at 10 for now. I've increased the light period to 10 hours. See if that makes any difference.


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Old 01/12/2019, 09:06 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by ~RuSh~ View Post
Thanks for the reply. What size tank? How high is your light mounted?


I guess I really didn't have a clue what I was doing with this light. I've turned the blue up to 60, and white is low at 10 for now. I've increased the light period to 10 hours. See if that makes any difference.
14 from the surface on a 65g


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Old 01/13/2019, 07:49 AM   #6
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Maybe I need to raise mine? How tall is a 65?

I've increased the photo period to 10 hours vs 6, and changed blue intensity to 60% and white to 15. Leaving everything alone in hopes it starts to recover. Also do a water change later today.


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Old 01/13/2019, 12:59 PM   #7
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Nice tank btw.


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Old 01/13/2019, 04:07 PM   #8
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I keep a bit higher than maybe "normal" for three reasons...
1-lense does not get stained by the creep
2-less affect of the salty humidity above the water on the units.
3- these lights a bit focused, so higher placement wides the area lit, a a bit more diffused.

Once you find a setting....just let it sit for a bit....then if you need, ramp up a tad.....
You want enough light to feed corals but not algae, there's a balance you will find.


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Old 01/13/2019, 04:43 PM   #9
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Check out BRS video on T5 lighting.
They had their clown harem/anemone tank under LED’s and the nems werent the healthiest looking. After switching to the hybrid power module they came back looking awesome.
Not that LED can’t sustain them but they could create hotspots , which ain’t good .


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Old 01/13/2019, 05:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle99 View Post
I keep a bit higher than maybe "normal" for three reasons...
1-lense does not get stained by the creep
2-less affect of the salty humidity above the water on the units.
3- these lights a bit focused, so higher placement wides the area lit, a a bit more diffused.

Once you find a setting....just let it sit for a bit....then if you need, ramp up a tad.....
You want enough light to feed corals but not algae, there's a balance you will find.



I'll leave these settings for a week or two so they can get used to the photo period, but I think I may raise the fixture a few inches after that. There may be a hot spot somewhere, and if I need to increase intensity I can still do that too.

Thanks.


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Old 01/13/2019, 05:38 PM   #11
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Check out BRS video on T5 lighting.
They had their clown harem/anemone tank under LEDís and the nems werent the healthiest looking. After switching to the hybrid power module they came back looking awesome.
Not that LED canít sustain them but they could create hotspots , which ainít good .

I've been considering T5HO for a while, but I just haven't committed to changing yet. Any recommendations?


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Old 01/13/2019, 05:49 PM   #12
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I've been considering T5HO for a while, but I just haven't committed to changing yet. Any recommendations?
To be honest, I just installed an ATI 4x24 sunpower over my reef.
Coming from Kessil and AI Hydra HD, Iím very happy with the switch to T5.
The tank is visually much brighter , coverage is very good and my SPS are lighted evenly . Had lots of self shadowing on my SPS with the LEDís and I didnít want to spend more money on extra fixtures to solve that issue.

I donít mind at all the flatter look ; itís easier on my eyes. Others have different tastes for shimmer I guess.
My tank is 95% SPS with a gorgonian and fully grown maxima clam. In my mind the sunpower made sense.
Colors are very very good with the following bulbs:
ATI Blue+
ATI Coral+
Giesemann super actinic
ATI Blue+

Sorry for the long response.


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Old 01/13/2019, 05:55 PM   #13
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Don't apologize, I appreciate the info. I am drawn to LED for the reduced power consumption, and low maintenance (not replacing bulbs).

But for the health of my tank, I am considering the T5s in this case. I do plan on giving this fixture another solid few months though. We'll see what happens.


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Old 01/13/2019, 07:18 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ~RuSh~ View Post
Don't apologize, I appreciate the info. I am drawn to LED for the reduced power consumption, and low maintenance (not replacing bulbs).

But for the health of my tank, I am considering the T5s in this case. I do plan on giving this fixture another solid few months though. We'll see what happens.

Yup, I moved from T5, had to replace every 9 months and they are expensive.
Been able to grow just as good with well tuned LED, including Acros and maxima clams.....never going back


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Old 01/14/2019, 12:18 AM   #15
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Yup, I moved from T5, had to replace every 9 months and they are expensive.
Been able to grow just as good with well tuned LED, including Acros and maxima clams.....never going back
No need to change bulbs every 9 months. According to PAR data from BRS on ATI bulbs you can go very comfortably to 1.5 year mark without significant PAR drop.
Let’s see...ATI sunpower 8x80watt , 60inch fixture is 800$. A single Radion xr30 gen 4 Pro costs that much.
You need at least 4 more to cover a 6ft tank well, meaning minimal shadowing, maybe 5 or about 1 fixture per foot for SPS.
Now take your money you would have spent on the other 4 or 5 Radions and buy yourself bulbs for the next 10 years and still have money left to buy ReefBrites or Orphek bars to attach to your Sunpower .

Don’t wanna derail the thread , but cost is a wash between them.


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Old 01/20/2019, 11:38 AM   #16
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BTA's have not improved. I've cut the intensity in half. 30% blues, 15% white. I may cut down on photoperiod again as well.


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Old 01/21/2019, 07:10 AM   #17
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Nem likes perfect, on-point water parameters.
In the post I see nitrate at 20ppm, I would shoot for 2-5ppm.
In the pic, I see tuffs of GHA, so it's likely that phosphste is high, I would shoot for 0.02-0.05 and no mire than 0.1
You say you had 2, went through a rough spot, got another. How is this one doing today?
If you can list all your parameters, that may help.
Once they get to a certain point and lost their zoo, hard to get them back, but possible

Not sure light is the issue here. If there is two much light, too little light, too much or little flow, they just move to a spot they like. The fact that one split is a sign of poor water conditions, kinda like self preservation. While they will move fir better light and flow, they, of course, they can not move to find better water.

If your most recent nem is fine, I would stabilize the intensity and period, and nit make any changes.

I would definitely monitor the water parameters.


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Old 02/10/2019, 06:02 PM   #18
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perfect


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Old 03/03/2019, 11:10 AM   #19
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It is going to take time for them to recover. You can not expect to fix in a week what as happened from months of to little light. You were on the right track increasing your lighting. If they are getting too much light they will move away from it. BTA Anemones like nitrates in the water and use it as a food source. They will do great with nitrates as high as 120.


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Old 03/04/2019, 08:19 PM   #20
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in this vŪdeo you can see some individuals that seems to be bleached........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrCofmVTq9k

I donīt know the reason............

BTAs seems thrive under more blue light........they seems to like T5 and AI Sol Blue.........

PAR between 200-400 micromols............


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