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Old 07/17/2017, 09:54 PM   #5026
Floyd R Turbo
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That's plenty of room for the acrylic to expand. Likely it would only expand a millimeter or less, so the silicone will compress, not a problem


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Old 07/18/2017, 03:54 PM   #5027
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thanks for the reply, i did some research while awaiting a response, based on my findings it will expand 1/32 total over the 6 inches.

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Old 07/28/2017, 10:07 AM   #5028
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My plan is to purchase some 2" x 3/8" strips of polycarbonate to make a frame for an aquarium cover. I need to make a channel about 3/8" from the edge for the screen spline to fit into to hold the screen in place. I don't have a router but could I do this with a dremel tool? The channel needs to be 1/8 x 1/8. I also have a wet saw but the blade is only 1/16 and make two passes with precision would not be easy. Thoughts?


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Old 07/28/2017, 10:14 AM   #5029
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You can use a saw, just set a fence to use as a guide so ypu obtain your precision, any syraight edge with some clamps can do for a makeshift fence. A dremel, that would be more of a challenge for precision over long straight runs imo. Unless you clamp the dremel in a sudo router table application and feed your stock through it again using a fence as a guide for thr accuracy

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Old 07/28/2017, 10:34 AM   #5030
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I have a dremel attachment the the tool screws into and you can set the depth. I could clamp a straight edge to the material and move the dremel along it. The there a a couple of dremel bits that might work and the are 1/8". I like the wet saw also, because the material may not melt and gum up the groove. Anyway a couple of options.

I am not going to get too fancy and planned on just using butt joints. They may not be as precise as I would like so I wonder if Weldon 4 is ok or should I try the thicker Weldon 16.


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Old 07/28/2017, 10:43 AM   #5031
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Actually a wet saw may gum up give the feed rate, try a test piece first acrylic generally doesnt like slow feed rates.

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Old 07/28/2017, 10:45 AM   #5032
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If the cuts are to rough like tbl saw quality it will be hard to gey a quality seam with number 4.... you can try it and then follow with the 16 as a filler - food for thought

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Current Tank Info: Custom Oak Stand | 75G FO Display | 40G Breeder Sump | MarinePure Ceramic Media Plate | Eshopps x-120 skimmer | Mag9 Return | Aqua Ultraviolet Advantage 2000+ 15w
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Old 07/28/2017, 11:08 AM   #5033
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Several of the cuts will be what ever they are from the fab shop (Tap Plastics). I figured I could sand them smooth. I think I read that WO 40 will not fix a poor fitting seam. Good thing is they don't have to be waterproof.

The dremel tool is sounding like my best bet.


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Old 07/28/2017, 04:34 PM   #5034
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Just so you are aware, polycarbonate is softer and tends to be "grabby". It's been recommended here (by James) that you are very careful, and whenever possible, use a template.

You might be better off laminating several pieces of acrylic together (or poly) to create the channel


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Old 08/02/2017, 03:42 AM   #5035
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Alright I got a question it's probably been answered before but I can't seem to find it. I'm building a tank with half inch cell cast I currently have all the walls of the tank welded together no bottom on yet. I noticed a small problem on the first seem I welded. Of course it's on the first seem. The problem is located at the edge of the seem (what will be the bottom of the tank. There is about 1/32 gap were the solvent didn't make it all the way down the edge and secondly there are 2 I would say good sized bubbles 1/4 from that gap. How should I go about filling the gap and bubbles? I was thinking about making a slurry with WO16 and some shavings and injecting it in. I have wo3,4,16 some very thin drills and 16 to 27 gage injecting needles. Or should I just weld a acrylic rod down that edge? It's going to be in a internal sump so to worried about the look.


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Old 08/02/2017, 08:28 AM   #5036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry6000 View Post
Alright I got a question it's probably been answered before but I can't seem to find it. I'm building a tank with half inch cell cast I currently have all the walls of the tank welded together no bottom on yet. I noticed a small problem on the first seem I welded. Of course it's on the first seem. The problem is located at the edge of the seem (what will be the bottom of the tank. There is about 1/32 gap were the solvent didn't make it all the way down the edge and secondly there are 2 I would say good sized bubbles 1/4 from that gap. How should I go about filling the gap and bubbles? I was thinking about making a slurry with WO16 and some shavings and injecting it in. I have wo3,4,16 some very thin drills and 16 to 27 gage injecting needles. Or should I just weld a acrylic rod down that edge? It's going to be in a internal sump so to worried about the look.
If I where u and not worried about looks I would simply weld on a new small piece lengthwise over the seam (like a patch encapsulating the address in question)at the inside corner and move on. Others may have a better idea though....

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Old 08/02/2017, 09:36 AM   #5037
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This is likely a result of air intrusion into the seam from the end. This is kind of typical actually, so some extent. While you can allow for overage along the joint so that a fillet can form and prevent air occlusion, you can't really do this on the ends where you will eventually bond the top and bottom on to the tank, unless you maybe place a piece of tape over that after you pull all the pins and allow the joint to initially set. But then you have to remove the tape residue before you can bond....

Upload a pic, this might help me confirm that this is what you are seeing.

But my gut tells me that once you put the bottom on (FYI put the top/euro on FIRST, the bottom goes on last) the solvent that you run for the bottom joint will wick up into the air gap you are seeing and it will disappear.

Also, the corners of a tank are the strongest points - you have 3 panes coming together at right angles (or at least, they should be at right angles) so this is the least of your worries.

If you are concerned about the integrity of the build when it is complete, then add a small gusset. You can use #3 or #4 or the equivalent for that, what you are wanting to do it reinforce the strength of the joint or rather distribute the stress across the gusset so that the bubble doesn't cause a weak spot. Taking the stress away reduces the problem, or removes it completely.


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Old 08/02/2017, 12:37 PM   #5038
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The best pic I could get doesn't really show the gap but you can see the bubbles. Pardon the red. I used bessy right angle clamps and the #4 wicked up the clamp. I'm still glad this is all in my sump.
I'm still on the fence about needing a brace. The tank is 16Hx12Wx92L inches. I want this to be braceless one places said 3/8 was enough the next said 5/8 thick what enough. I didn't have the money to go to 3/4 so I bought the 1/2. When I build the internal sump I plan on using a piece of 1/2 6-8 inches from the end I think this will help out the bad corner in question as well as a very little need for a brace. What do you think?


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Old 08/02/2017, 03:48 PM   #5039
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The best pic I could get doesn't really show the gap but you can see the bubbles. Pardon the red. I used bessy right angle clamps and the #4 wicked up the clamp. I'm still glad this is all in my sump.
I'm still on the fence about needing a brace. The tank is 16Hx12Wx92L inches. I want this to be braceless one places said 3/8 was enough the next said 5/8 thick what enough. I didn't have the money to go to 3/4 so I bought the 1/2. When I build the internal sump I plan on using a piece of 1/2 6-8 inches from the end I think this will help out the bad corner in question as well as a very little need for a brace. What do you think?
I wouldn't worry about the bubbles at all. Your top bracing will depend on how much other "stuff" is glued inside; baffles and whatnot. As a tank without baffles, it will definitely need a top brace; both a euro-brace at least one cross-brace. As a sump with baffles, etc., you'll want at least a euro-brace, cross-bracing dependent on other internals being glued in.

FWIW, at that size, even 1" would need at least the euro-brace.

HTH,
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Old 08/02/2017, 07:30 PM   #5040
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Ok so how thick does the brace need to be? The perimeter and center? Is it possible to just do a wide(12-18 inch) center brace. I hate the look of euro


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Old 08/03/2017, 11:26 PM   #5041
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Was my question that ridiculous or did I offend someone by saying I hate the look of euro bracing?


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Old 08/04/2017, 07:51 AM   #5042
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Nope, I know that I don't easily offend and James is pretty relaxed! It's understandable to dislike the look of a euro, but when it comes to structural integrity, it can sometimes be a necessity

As James mentioned, the need for a euro (and it's size) can depend on your baffles and how you build the sump.

When I build sumps, I install the end panels to the front just like when building a display tank, and then I also bond in the baffles at the same time. Then flip, bond everything to the back panel, then the euro, then the bottom. So all of those front/back/baffle joints are structural (versus if you were to add them in after it was made, and just wick in the solvent via capillary action - that's a weak bond and IMO not structural)

So if you have a lot of baffles, you can compensate for the lack of a euro.

Also, the operating water level matters, if it's going to be very full all the time (and you don't have much for power-off draw-down) then you will want it beefier. If you operate at a relatively low water level in the sump (relative to the height of the sump) then you might be OK with no bracing - but remember, the worst case scenario is when the sump fills all the way up. This is usually when there is an outage, so having the sump blow out then would be the worst time that could happen.

If you have a large section with no baffles, you can add in an intermediary baffle which would sort of look like a picture frame, or an "interior euro baffle" (oriented vertically)


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Old 08/04/2017, 02:16 PM   #5043
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Ok I'll start wil my plans for the tank. The tank will be freshwater shell deweller tank. The sump will be relatively small and placed at one end of the tank I'm thinking 6-10 inches long will be enough space for a pump, filter media, heater. Pump will be a syncra sicce 1.5 or 2.0 I'm leaning towards the 2.0(around 550gph adjustable). I plan to pump the return out the back of the tank to the opposite end of the tank for better water flow. Heater will be in the Same section at the pump. I'm going to have a plate for filter floss or to hold a mesh sock. Some media underneath the sock/floss plate. With the middle section houseing ceramic ring.
The main section of the tank will be 16"H x 12"W and about 86" long water height will be about 14.5-15 inches high. The only baffle I want to weld in is the one separating the tank and sump. That way I can move the baffles in the sump in need be.
So from what you 2 have told me I'm going to need a euro. Can I just euro the main section of the tank leaving the sump uncovered? Do I have to use 1/2thick acrylic like the rest of the tank or can get away with 1/4 or 3/8 think. What is the minimum/recommended parameter width of the euro needed and how wide should the center brace be? Lastly does more center braces or wider center braces mean a thinner parimater with euro?


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Old 08/04/2017, 02:24 PM   #5044
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Here is what I have so far. I still need to router the ends to make the corner flush.


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Old 08/07/2017, 09:55 AM   #5045
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I got sidetracked, forgot to get back to this

So let me understand this - This is kind of like an AIO tank essentially, right? All-In-One. Just a really big one.

So 92" long tank with one section being 86" long - yeah you will definitely need a euro, that's a long span. You're going to want cross-braces as well, several of them, probably every 48". Granted that it's not a wide tank (front/back) so a 2" euro 1/4" thick and 2-3" crossbraces every 48" might be enough, that's just "from the hip"...James might have a better suggestion based on actual math.

The thicker you make it, the less crossbraces, and potentially, the thinner perimeter width. But I'm guessing there is a limit to that.

Sump can probably be without a euro since it's only 8" long, is that correct?


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Old 08/07/2017, 10:29 AM   #5046
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Quick question, trying to make a long large sump, where do you guys buy your acrylic at a reasonable price?


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Old 08/07/2017, 11:04 AM   #5047
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Try googling:

Laird Plastics
Sabic Polymershapes
Port Plastics
Regal Plastics

Laird has a Seattle location


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--> POSTS #3251-64 (Basics), #5206 (Cleaning), #6884 (LEDs), #729
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Old 08/07/2017, 07:50 PM   #5048
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Floyd
Yea it will be an all in one tank on a large scale. 1/4 think you say. I don't even mind 3/8. I was just dreading buying more 1/2. As far as the euro should it be all one piece or would it be ok to piece it together? I only ask because I can prolly find drops that size around my area.

Thank for all your help


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Old 08/08/2017, 08:06 PM   #5049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo View Post
Try googling:

Laird Plastics
Sabic Polymershapes
Port Plastics
Regal Plastics

Laird has a Seattle location
Awesome, thanks!


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Old 08/20/2017, 10:05 AM   #5050
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Finishing up my current build and need some advice. Current tank build is 44"L x 36"W x 21"H. All panels are 1" acrylic. I'm currently laying out the top euro bracing on going to use 3/4" acrylic for the euro bracing. My question is and I know there's no magical formula for thickness, but I'm planning on 6" wide euro bracing all around the tank with no cross bracing. Would this work? The overflow is on the end of the tank that will be tucked into the wall and that also will be euro braced as well.

Any thoughts or input would be greatly appreciated!!!!!


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