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Old 06/06/2017, 02:44 PM   #76
solitude127
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hopefully you got a favorable response the the manufacturer but better to find it now than 6 months from now.


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Old 06/06/2017, 11:27 PM   #77
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While the tank sits partially empty, I went on to work on some things in the shed. The shed is about 45 ft away from the tank so I had to order two 30 ft aquabus extension cables. This means the aquabus connection will be sitting outside. There is a lot of moisture in the air here at night living so close to the beach so I ghetto rigged this weather proof box out of tupperware for the aquabus connection. Dremeled the corners to fit the cable and then caulked it to seal it off.



I also pinned all the rodi lines to the house for a cleaner look. I installed a pmup into the RODI tank along with a float switch to shut off the pmup and text me when the water is low. Also installed a magnetic switch to have the lights turn on when I open the right door of the shed. The left door has pins on the top and bottom to lock down the door and I would always have to undo the pins to get the door open and then turn on the lights. It was a hassle.



Under the tank, I installed a neptune solenoid to cut off water from the RODI PMUP. I forgot to take a pic of that. I'll update this thread after the builder sees what he can do about the eurobracing.



[]
Nice work. I wish I had told you about the site that makes up to 200' Aquabus cables though. Your way will be perfectly fine.
Do you use the external pump to move the fresh water into the Saltwater container? Or does it provide mixing as well? That's the part I'm a bit confused about. Mine is still pretty manual. I have a mixing pump that runs a few minutes each day, but that's about it.


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Old 06/07/2017, 01:06 AM   #78
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hopefully you got a favorable response the the manufacturer but better to find it now than 6 months from now.
Yes, I am glad to find this problem now then have the tank fail at a later time. The builder came over this morning to redo the bracing.

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Nice work. I wish I had told you about the site that makes up to 200' Aquabus cables though. Your way will be perfectly fine.
Do you use the external pump to move the fresh water into the Saltwater container? Or does it provide mixing as well? That's the part I'm a bit confused about. Mine is still pretty manual. I have a mixing pump that runs a few minutes each day, but that's about it.
That would have been nice to know! The external pump moves fresh water to the SW container. It will also be used for mixing and I'll have the apex turn it on for a few minutes each day when there is SW in there. I'll be adding a float switch in the SW container also to shut the pump off if water gets too low.


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Old 06/07/2017, 01:26 AM   #79
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Today after the builder left, I completely drained the tank. I need to wait 3-4 weeks for the adhesive to cure. No point in leaving the tank partially filled as the water was getting more foul everyday. The builder will come back to clean up all the adhesive once it dries a little bit making it easier to clean up.

On Sunday, I tested the water and it read 1ppm of ammonia, that is when I tossed in five bottles of bio-spira. I drained the tank but left water in the sump. I have the skimmer, reactor pump and return pump running so water does not get stagnate. The return pump is just running through the UV sterilizer. I tested the sump water and it had a reading of .50ppm ammonia and 20ppm nitrate, little cycle happening in the sump? I threw in several pieces of pukani rock into the sump.

So I have a GHL doser 2 master and slave. I read that the doser can do 1L/hr. I am thinking about using the slave which has four pumps to do my AWC instead of buying a neptune DOS. I already have a line running from the SW container back into the house. I just need to run a line out to the drain for SW out and calibrate the doser. Anyone use the GHL doser for AWC?










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Old 06/07/2017, 04:06 AM   #80
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Good news it's been addressed, and news.. 3-4 weeks is foreverrrrrr... can you cycle your Dt rock in a barrel in the meantime?

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Old 06/07/2017, 07:50 AM   #81
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Good news it's been addressed, and news.. 3-4 weeks is foreverrrrrr... can you cycle your Dt rock in a barrel in the meantime?

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Why can't you keep the water level just above the rock and away from the new seal. Throw an airstone and some powerheads in it and keep the water moving?

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Old 06/07/2017, 09:25 AM   #82
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Why can't you keep the water level just above the rock and away from the new seal. Throw an airstone and some powerheads in it and keep the water moving?

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I'm sure for the adhesive to work correctly this time he needs to have no pressure pushing out on the sides of the aquarium, so no water.


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Old 06/08/2017, 01:05 AM   #83
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Good news it's been addressed, and news.. 3-4 weeks is foreverrrrrr... can you cycle your Dt rock in a barrel in the meantime?

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Yes, I am glad he was able to fix it on the spot. I did not want to remove all the wet sand and rocks from the display. 3-4 weeks is a long time but I am sure it will fly by. My days are very busy so a week goes by really quick for me. It was a pain getting the rocks into the display so I do not really want to remove it. I'll just wait it out.

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Why can't you keep the water level just above the rock and away from the new seal. Throw an airstone and some powerheads in it and keep the water moving?

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That was my initial plan since the builder say to only partially drain the tank. I lowered the two Tunze 6255 to provide flow but the water was getting really nasty. When the builder came to fix the eurobrace, he said the excess moisture might cause the adhesive to take longer to cure also so I just drained it. Also better not to add any pressure to the panes while the adhesive cures.


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I'm sure for the adhesive to work correctly this time he needs to have no pressure pushing out on the sides of the aquarium, so no water.
Pretty much and getting rid of a large moisture source will help the adhesive cure faster.


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Old 07/01/2017, 01:29 PM   #84
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Update Mike! Can't wait to see how the build is progressing


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Old 07/02/2017, 01:59 AM   #85
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Update Mike! Can't wait to see how the build is progressing
The tank has been in limbo since the eurobracing fiasco. Builder came by Friday to clean up the silicone. He suggested I wait until 7/14 to fill the tank back up so it will be two more weeks. I've kept my sump running with some rocks in it to cure since I drained the tank about 4 weeks ago. I did get some things done while waiting, didn't bother to update since it is just some minor things.

I bought a Bubble Magus doser bracket to mount my GHL Doser.



I had to cut out a notch so the GHL doser would fit.




Mounted behind the Apex panel.



I hung the two ATI PM Hybrid lights. They're heavy!!




I installed another netpune PMUP to the SW mixing container and ran a line to the sump. This will replace any tank water I remove to acclimate fish or corals. There is a solenoid on this line to shut off flow should the PMUP ever get stuck on. Also a float valve just in case they both fail. There is also a float switch in the SW container to turn off the PMUP , DOS and Panworld mixing pump when water gets low.

Got the Dos hooked up and ran a couple lines into the house and a line to the drain outside. I plan to do 1 gallon a day automatic water changes.



Here is the tank cleaned up again. Hopefully, no more eurobracing failure. Made two screen tops to keep fish from jumping out.




I have 150 gallons of RODI water in the shed ready to go. I will add salt and mix it up as the fill date gets closer.

A couple things on my want list. I'm looking at getting a ARID C30 to deal with nutrients. I've read plenty of post about pukani rock constantly leaching po4 for months to a year. I've got plenty of GFO in a 5g bucket but rather not constantly have to change out GFO. GFO is also harsh on the corals so the ARID is a toy I'm planning on picking up soon.

I've been doing a lot of research on calcium reactors and I'm thinking I might pull the trigger on a Dastaco A-3 when demand gets high. I've read nothing but good things about this reactor and it's ease of adjustment and maintenance. Turn a knob to set your alk, doesn't get any easier then that.

Question for you people who store SW on hand for weeks/months. How often do you run your mixing pump and for what duration? I use to simply leave a small powerhead in the container running 24/7 but I rather use the Panworld pump to mix instead.


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Old 07/13/2017, 03:50 AM   #86
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I'm getting ready to fill my tank again. I've made about 600 gallons with my new 6 stage water save rodi unit from BRS. I noticed the sediment filter is now really brown and one of the two di canisters is already exhausted.

How many gallons do you guys get out of your filters and di resin?


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Old 07/13/2017, 08:01 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by mike810 View Post
The tank has been in limbo since the eurobracing fiasco. Builder came by Friday to clean up the silicone. He suggested I wait until 7/14 to fill the tank back up so it will be two more weeks. I've kept my sump running with some rocks in it to cure since I drained the tank about 4 weeks ago. I did get some things done while waiting, didn't bother to update since it is just some minor things.

I bought a Bubble Magus doser bracket to mount my GHL Doser.



I had to cut out a notch so the GHL doser would fit.




Mounted behind the Apex panel.



I hung the two ATI PM Hybrid lights. They're heavy!!




I installed another netpune PMUP to the SW mixing container and ran a line to the sump. This will replace any tank water I remove to acclimate fish or corals. There is a solenoid on this line to shut off flow should the PMUP ever get stuck on. Also a float valve just in case they both fail. There is also a float switch in the SW container to turn off the PMUP , DOS and Panworld mixing pump when water gets low.

Got the Dos hooked up and ran a couple lines into the house and a line to the drain outside. I plan to do 1 gallon a day automatic water changes.



Here is the tank cleaned up again. Hopefully, no more eurobracing failure. Made two screen tops to keep fish from jumping out.




I have 150 gallons of RODI water in the shed ready to go. I will add salt and mix it up as the fill date gets closer.

A couple things on my want list. I'm looking at getting a ARID C30 to deal with nutrients. I've read plenty of post about pukani rock constantly leaching po4 for months to a year. I've got plenty of GFO in a 5g bucket but rather not constantly have to change out GFO. GFO is also harsh on the corals so the ARID is a toy I'm planning on picking up soon.

I've been doing a lot of research on calcium reactors and I'm thinking I might pull the trigger on a Dastaco A-3 when demand gets high. I've read nothing but good things about this reactor and it's ease of adjustment and maintenance. Turn a knob to set your alk, doesn't get any easier then that.

Question for you people who store SW on hand for weeks/months. How often do you run your mixing pump and for what duration? I use to simply leave a small powerhead in the container running 24/7 but I rather use the Panworld pump to mix instead.
For a big system like yours the arid is not big enough. If u have room add a separate refugium then u can grow cheato and caulerpa. Since I add a refugium to my system with cheato and caulerpa my phosphate is steady .02 to .05. No more GFO I still run some carbon to keep the water clear


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Old 07/13/2017, 11:07 AM   #88
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I'm getting ready to fill my tank again. I've made about 600 gallons with my new 6 stage water save rodi unit from BRS. I noticed the sediment filter is now really brown and one of the two di canisters is already exhausted.

How many gallons do you guys get out of your filters and di resin?
Sediment, I change out 3 months no matter what and then Carbon block, every 6 months and DI resin once my TDS gets to 1 but I'm only making an average of 30g/week. The Sediment and Carbon block do very little to reduce TDS, they're there to protect the membrane.

What the TDS coming out of the membrane and what is the TDS out of the tap?


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Old 07/15/2017, 12:41 AM   #89
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For a big system like yours the arid is not big enough. If u have room add a separate refugium then u can grow cheato and caulerpa. Since I add a refugium to my system with cheato and caulerpa my phosphate is steady .02 to .05. No more GFO I still run some carbon to keep the water clear
The Arid C30 is rated for 250-500 gallons. I'm holding off until I see where my nutrient levels are at.

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Sediment, I change out 3 months no matter what and then Carbon block, every 6 months and DI resin once my TDS gets to 1 but I'm only making an average of 30g/week. The Sediment and Carbon block do very little to reduce TDS, they're there to protect the membrane.

What the TDS coming out of the membrane and what is the TDS out of the tap?
I may have to adopt your filter change schedule. TDS coming in is 247, after membrane is 7, after first DI canister which I thought was already exhausted is 2 and then 0 after the last Di canister.


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Old 07/15/2017, 12:47 AM   #90
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Water is in the tank! Euro brace seams are holding. So glad to finally have water in the tank again but at the same time nervous after what happened the first go around. Tank has 348 gallons of water including sump, rocks and sand. This time I kept track of exactly how many gallons was going in the tank.





Trying to tune the skimmer.



When I drained the tank, I kept the sump going and added rocks into the sump. I got a good ammonia reading from the sump. Tested a week later and there was zero ammonia and nitrites. There was a lot of nitrates. I'll be testing the tank again for ammonia in a few days.


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Old 07/15/2017, 03:47 PM   #91
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I may have to adopt your filter change schedule. TDS coming in is 247, after membrane is 7, after first DI canister which I thought was already exhausted is 2 and then 0 after the last Di canister.
The membrane probably still needs to break in. I changed mine out and initially, my TDS out of the membrane was 11 and then after a couple of months use, it's now down to 4. Give it a bit, I'm sure it'll come down but 7 isn't too bad

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Old 07/20/2017, 02:09 AM   #92
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When I filled the tank, I dumped in five bottles of Bio-Spira. Next day, I went and purchased three pajama cardinals and a bristletooth tomini tang. All pretty small. Tested for ammonia and nitrites for the next several days and never got a reading. A couple days later I placed an order for seven green/blue chromis and a pair of frost bite clowns (for the wife). When I added the last chromis, it nose dived for the rocks and I haven't seen it since. Been a couple days, I've only seen six chromis at a time unless they're switching place and only six comes out at a time. I'll give it a few more days. I've been testing for ammonia and nitrites and never got a reading, not even the slightest hint of any of the two. I have to say bio-spira works great!!

I used fritz RPM salt and I have to admit, I'm kind of disappointed in the salt. My alk tested at 6.2 via hanna and salifert test kits. I had to dose 210ml of ESV over the course of a several days to bring up the alk to 8.

Calcium tested at 445
No test for magnesium yet.
No3 tested at 10
Po4 was .23ppm so I threw in some GFO a couple days ago. Tonight, tested at .08ppm with hanna ULR. Will keep an eye on po4. I thought the pukani rocks would be leaching a lot more phosphate or maybe that is a lot??

Tonight I seeded the tank with tisbe pods from algaebarn, I'd like to build a good population before adding some wrasse.






I relocated the doser to the wall. I didn't like the tubing go across from the dosing containers to the doser which was located behind the apex panel then going back across to the sump. I think this looks much better.




Had to install a fan, it's been a little warm and tank was getting up to 81 degrees. Now the tank is running at 79.5-80 with the fan.



Can anyone recommend me some gel filters to remove the blue when taking pics with an iphone?


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Old 07/20/2017, 07:14 AM   #93
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Old 07/20/2017, 07:16 AM   #94
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By the way your tank and setup in amazing.....


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Old 07/20/2017, 10:50 AM   #95
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Yeah.. Fish... Congrats.
I don't think there's a need for alk dosing just yet. The fish don't really care about Alk, CA, Mg.


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Old 07/20/2017, 02:41 PM   #96
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Everything is pulling together nicely!


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Old 07/20/2017, 06:15 PM   #97
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By the way your tank and setup in amazing.....
Thanks for the recommendation and appreciate the compliment!


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Yeah.. Fish... Congrats.
I don't think there's a need for alk dosing just yet. The fish don't really care about Alk, CA, Mg.
Thanks! Yeah I know they don't care but figured I'd bring it up anyways incase we stop by a LFS and see something we just had to have. My wife is more impatient than I am. I'm lucky to have her be as interested in this hobby as I am. It's easy to make new purchases lol.

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Everything is pulling together nicely!
Thanks buddy, it's been a long wait but everything is going smoothly now.


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Old 07/21/2017, 09:36 AM   #98
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Thanks! Yeah I know they don't care but figured I'd bring it up anyways incase we stop by a LFS and see something we just had to have. My wife is more impatient than I am. I'm lucky to have her be as interested in this hobby as I am. It's easy to make new purchases lol.
Good thinking ahead.


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Old 07/21/2017, 07:51 PM   #99
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I would recommend a few more bacterial starters. It's always good to have more diversity in that area. How do you like the royal exclusive pump? I'm thinking of getting the medium sized one when I can afford it.


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Old 07/21/2017, 08:39 PM   #100
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I would recommend a few more bacterial starters. It's always good to have more diversity in that area. How do you like the royal exclusive pump? I'm thinking of getting the medium sized one when I can afford it.
I also added zeovit's zeobac which I forgot to mention. I'll be adding it until the bottle is done. The red dragon pumps are great. Move a ton of water and they're silent. I would recommend them if budget permits.


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