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Old 10/28/2009, 04:10 PM   #351
iFisch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nanonubey View Post
Thanks for the quick response, I really want to drill it for my fuge because right now it's piped to syphon the water to the fuge and it's a pain.

I would locate a used one locally, JUST IN CASE something were to happen. (ie skill, drillbit, patience, etc.). It's not filled with anything is it?


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Old 10/28/2009, 04:22 PM   #352
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The tank is fully stocked right now, I figured on drilling it when I do a water change and the level is down. Also I plan on getting a new drill bit. As far as skill and patience, I drill very expensive plumbing fixtures so IM used to the stress factor that comes with drilling right the first time. And I have a back up tank god forbide.


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Old 10/28/2009, 04:29 PM   #353
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Originally Posted by nanonubey View Post
The tank is fully stocked right now, I figured on drilling it when I do a water change and the level is down. Also I plan on getting a new drill bit. As far as skill and patience, I drill very expensive plumbing fixtures so IM used to the stress factor that comes with drilling right the first time. And I have a back up tank god forbide.

I'd say give it a shot.


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Old 10/28/2009, 04:51 PM   #354
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I'll post picture of the final product.


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Old 10/28/2009, 04:54 PM   #355
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I'll post picture of the final product.



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Old 10/28/2009, 04:57 PM   #356
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hey nanonubey, did you consider an overflow box instead of drilling?


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Old 10/28/2009, 06:29 PM   #357
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Hey Slvr I was just about to send you a message asking how you like the upgrades you've done because I was planning on getting all of those products soon. Back to your question, I thought about it but I wanted to make it look cleaner and not make it a big ordeal every time I need to lift the hood.


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Old 10/28/2009, 06:48 PM   #358
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Originally Posted by nanonubey View Post
Hey Slvr I was just about to send you a message asking how you like the upgrades you've done because I was planning on getting all of those products soon. Back to your question, I thought about it but I wanted to make it look cleaner and not make it a big ordeal every time I need to lift the hood.
might cost you a little more $$, but the Sapphire Aquatics overflow box is a clean solution that shouldn't require any changes to lift the hood:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xspjNZeQg8


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Old 10/30/2009, 05:47 PM   #359
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For those with the D&D/JBJ Nanocube HQI 28G, heat issue is quite a common thing. My living room where the tank is located is always a very warm room...good for the cold winters, but not so good due for having a tank with a halide light.

I carried out various tests to see what the average temp the tank runs after the halides have been on for 8 hours.

Typically, the tank will heat up an additional 10'F after the halides have run.

I bought an Azoo twin fan and duly placed this over the rear "sump" area as everyone does. This does help, but, is limited to reducing the effect of the halide heating by about 5-6'F. So the tank still heats up an additional 4-5'F with the halides on. I wanted to improve on this without buying a chiller or adding additional fans.

For I while I pondered with the idea of taking apart the Azoo fans and locating them inside the hood. This will also free up some space at the back...

So, aftertaking apart the Azoo fans, I fixed the fans on either side of the front of the nanocube hood and wired the fans up as well as routing out the wire out one of the side vent:


This provides the best placement of the fans for the cooling effect. Note that I have removed the feeding lid. This is required so that fresh air can enter and water vapour can flow out etc...

I then cut a long strip of paper in a very thin slice and placed at the two side vents and notice that air was being forced out the vents! I also tested and found that air was also flowing to the back of the hood past the halide glass and coming out the two cut outs for the hinge mechanism! Wow, pretty good I thought.

Airflow:


My stand is very high and I dont mind having the feeding lid missing. Anyway, how much better is the cooling?

Well, now with this mod, the fans can COOL the tank to a temp LOWER than what the temp was before the halide starts! They are that good now with this mod. I think it is a combination of evaporative cooling, but also, due to having the the airflow, some of the heat from the halide bulb that otherwise would heat up the water is routed out the vents!

I can now keep my tank at a rock steady 79'F ALL the time (they are on a controller). The fans used to run around 14 hours per day if the halides were on for 8 hours as it would run for 8 hours whilst the halides were on, and then another 6 hours to bring the temp back to 79'F from 84'F.

Now the when the halides comes on, the temp goes upto 80'F at which point the controller turns the fans on...they run for about 4 hours and bring the temp down to 79'F and so on... net effect is they run about 6 hours less = a few pennies saved heehee.

No need to raise hood, buy chiller or go open top. The fans are very near the feeding opening and so water vapour does not build up in this area so I am not worried about them rusting etc. Even if they get damaged, I can easily replace them with same size PC fans which are much cheaper than the Azoo fan. If you are worried, replace them evr six months. Should cost you no more than a few 's for each fan.

Temp stats for this tank in my living room:

1. Heating due to halide = 1.1'F Per Hour
2. Cooling by Azoo fans (before mod) with halide OFF = 0.8'F Per Hour
3. Cooling b Azoo fans (before mod) with halide ON = 0.5'F Per hour
4. Cooling by Azoo FAN MOD with halide ON = 1.3'F Per Hour

So you can easily see how even with the halides on, you can cool the tank. Phew...long write up...


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Old 11/01/2009, 12:03 PM   #360
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new tank

my tank showed up and I began to mod everything I changed out the pumps with mj 1200 added a koralia 1, put lock line y's and split the out put from the pumps now I want to do the refug to it my question is where do I find the light that go on the back of the tank


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Old 11/01/2009, 01:40 PM   #361
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Looking good there. I have seen pics of refug lighting mods on various forums. Just pick up a suitable 13-20watt fluoro lighting from any hardware store and position it in the back. You'll light up more area this way then shining the light from top down. But you do need to be able to scrap off corraline growth off the glass. You dont need any special spectrum or anything like that. The typical warm white coloured fluoro tubes will do fine for macroalgae.


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Old 11/01/2009, 03:01 PM   #362
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Just wanted to say hi to everyone after lurking in the thread the last few days. My 28g CF showed up from DFS on friday. I have been working on a few minor mods (the typical pump upgrades, dremmeling the back lip to fit a skimmer etc....). I also completed one other that I haven't seen anyone else do.

I have been working on getting an MJ400/Phosban reactor on the right chamber. Here is what I came up with so far:



The only thing I am worried about is the pump blocking some of the flow into the 5th chamber, which is part of the reason I put an MJ900 instead of a 1200. Will this work?


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Old 11/01/2009, 03:53 PM   #363
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axia55: Hi there! Many thanks for posting the photos. I saved them for future use in case I decide to setup a similar reactor. Its always good to post photos where possible as it exactly shows how certain things are setup.

Have I got this right? You are running 1 x MJ1200 + 1 x MJ900 + 1 x MJ400 (to run phos reactor)? I think you'd be ok. The middle three chambers are connected. And then the two chambers on the side are also connected. I know that many are using two MJ1200's in the back. As the two side chambers are connected, even with having the extra pump (MJ400) on one side, I dont think it will affect the OVERALL flow.

Please post a photos of the other mods with brief explanations as it helps everyone who come to this thread.


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Old 11/01/2009, 04:52 PM   #364
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Question: I have the stock JBJ HQI ballast what bulbs are good. Planning on replacing my stock bulb soon. How about Radium ,Ushio, Pheonix (I see many running those) wanting a good 14k bulb?


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Old 11/01/2009, 05:33 PM   #365
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ckranz: look back a page or so. I posted some photos etc. I changed out the internals of the JBJ magnetic ballast With the stock JBJ 14K bulb I just didnt like the colour. With a Phoenix 14K bulb, the colour is a very white light without any yellow in it at all. However, the blue tint/colour was jst not there so I got an electronic ballast. Its now all good. I have used BLV 10K's in the past but didnt like the slightly yellow look.

I think 14K is the best in terms of growth and look. I havent tried a Radium 20K yet, I would only get one if it would be bluer and give a more pop to corals.

Is anyone running the Radium?


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Old 11/01/2009, 05:37 PM   #366
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Yeah I'm not really wanting to switch out my ballast. I want to see what works best eith the ballast I got. I would like to try Ushio or Radium. Has anyone tried these?


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Old 11/01/2009, 05:57 PM   #367
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Quote:
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Have I got this right? You are running 1 x MJ1200 + 1 x MJ900 + 1 x MJ400 (to run phos reactor)? I think you'd be ok. The middle three chambers are connected. And then the two chambers on the side are also connected. I know that many are using two MJ1200's in the back. As the two side chambers are connected, even with having the extra pump (MJ400) on one side, I dont think it will affect the OVERALL flow.
Yes, I am running a 1200 -400 - 900 in that order. I decided to put the 900 on the right side incase having the 400 in the overflow chamber slows down the flow it should have enough.


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Old 11/02/2009, 11:12 AM   #368
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Looks like I am joining the club as well! I just ordered a NC28 CF Quad from the Drs. with a free stand. I have 2 small percs in a 10 gal right now that will move in when I get it setup. I also picked up an Aquatic life skimmer and I have a koralia nano that will also move over from the 10 gal. Might swap pumps but not until I see what I am working with.

Quickcord


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Old 11/02/2009, 11:30 AM   #369
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Looks like I am joining the club as well! I just ordered a NC28 CF Quad from the Drs. with a free stand. I have 2 small percs in a 10 gal right now that will move in when I get it setup. I also picked up an Aquatic life skimmer and I have a koralia nano that will also move over from the 10 gal. Might swap pumps but not until I see what I am working with.

Quickcord
Welcome aboard Quickcord!


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Old 11/02/2009, 02:36 PM   #370
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I've been using a Radium since I setup the tank. It works great with the JBL ballast.


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Old 11/02/2009, 03:17 PM   #371
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Definitely want to see more pics axia55 - I'd like to be able to set up a media reactor like that but don't have the first clue how to do it. Do you actually physically have more than one pump in the far left or right chambers? On top of each other? Sorry, I'm confused easily


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Old 11/02/2009, 04:09 PM   #372
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Definitely want to see more pics axia55 - I'd like to be able to set up a media reactor like that but don't have the first clue how to do it. Do you actually physically have more than one pump in the far left or right chambers? On top of each other? Sorry, I'm confused easily
I will pull it out and take some more pictures later tonight.


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Old 11/02/2009, 04:48 PM   #373
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I'm not sure if these pictures will help explain it better but here they are:






If you have any specific questions let me know, its not really all that complicated of a setup if you have the right fittings.


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Old 11/03/2009, 12:13 PM   #374
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Radium 20K

Just upgraded from the stock JBJ 14K to Radium 20K. Worth the money!! My coral looks great and it is not to blue.


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Old 11/03/2009, 12:59 PM   #375
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kaRP12: Does the Radium 20K make your coral colours POP/GLOW? Are you running the stock magnetic ballast or an electronic Ballast? MAny thanks for the answers.

PS Are you able to post some photos?


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